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The impedance of the driver never falls below 7 Ohms and it can be driven by a small vacuum tube amplifier.
You can find the course counts for the sections on the drawing. These –with the exception of “a” and “g” sections- can be used directly as building blocks without any further processing. Find a reliable board cutting company, and do not allow more the a few tenth of a millimeter tolerance. With a properly adjusted machine, this can be easily achieved. Call the worker’s attention on the identical sizes, because it is practical to have these sections cut out in a single phase without readjusting the machine. Sections of the cabinet must precisely fit together, the adhesive mustn’t serve as a gap filler.
You have to perform the sagging on section “a” (Depth is 7 mm, D=144 mm) for the edge of the basket with a miller. If it is not available or we lack any experience in the operation of one, the sagging can be omitted, but in this case it is advisable to round the outer edges of the driver’s hole. The omission of the sagging does not affect the sound quality perceivably, because full range drivers are very directed. Afterwards we can cut out the hole for the driver (D=122 mm) with a miller or a power saw. Now the front panel is ready to be built in.
On section “g” we have to do the cutout for the interface plug. If we are through this, comes the most complicated process: the shaping of the blunt angled end of section “g”. Mark the refracting angle with a thin pencil and shape up the figure with a rasp. Proceed in small steps, with a constant testing of the result. If we managed to rough it down, smooth out the meeting surfaces with 120 grade abrasive paper.
The used adhesive is water based. Perform the gluing process on a flat tabletop! But before that, check the joints by setting the appropriate sections on one of the side panels. Sections “a” and “b” must be mounted together. Use of clamps is advised, but because of the shrinkage of the adhesive not by all means necessary. The most important thing is to avoid the dislocation of sections through the clamping or the gluing process. For this reason, use of woodscrews –which will be removed after drying- is not a sacrilege. The places of the crews should be plugged with pins, after expanded to the appropriate bore diameter.
The chamber behind the driver must be filled out completely but loosely with wool or Decron (synthetic damper). The throat (the intersection of the chamber and the horn) calls for a denser damper nugget, so that the unwanted higher range can only enter the horn with a steeper cut.
Other projects coming soon...
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Sonido Aion backloaded horn
Sonido SWR 250 NEW reflex drawing